New and Notable in Menswear

Little Vinnie’s

Little Vinnie's, Brooklyn

When we caught up with Jacob Parris (who co-owns Brooklyn’s Vinnie’s Styles with his brothers Desta and Paul) for our July Uptown/Downtown coverage, he sent this shapshot of their new kids’ store, Little Vinnie’s at 454 Dean Street in Brooklyn. It opened in May.

David Levy, Nashville’s Father of the Year

Ellen and David Levy

David Levy, fifth generation owner of Levy’s in Nashville, Tennessee, was honored as a Father of the Year at a ceremony last week in Nashville. The event benefitted the American Diabetes Association. “Both of our kids made speeches and my sisters came in from Chicago and Cincinnati for the weekend so it was very special,” Ellen Levy told us.

Ike Behar’s Lifetime Achievement Award

Steve Behar, Lawrence Behar, Ike Behar and Alan Behar

Ike Behar was honored by the Miami Jewish Health Networks on June 17th with a Lifetime Achievement Award for his philanthropic efforts. Commenting before the U.S. House the day before, Congresswoman Ileana Ros-Lehtinen (R) from South Florida recognized Behar’s contributions:

“Isaac Behar embodies the American dream. At the age of 20 he left Havana with $50 to build a new life and helping others. He proudly served this country in the United States Army during the Korean War. After completion of service he started his business. After seeing the great service his mother-in-law received from the Miami Jewish Health Networks Isaac made sure others would receive the same. Isaac Behar I commend you for your service, support for our community and our nation. Thank you for your dedication and commitment and for improving the lives of all in South Florida.”

Lansky Bros., The Book

Lansky Bros. in Memphis, the store famous for outfitting Elvis Presley, has published a 144-page hardcover book about its colorful six-decade history. “Lansky Brothers: Clothier to the King,” ($35, Beckon Books) is full of photos and stories about Elvis and other notable customers, like Isaac Hayes, Pat Boone, Johnny Cash and James Brown.

In the video below, Hal Lansky talks to a local news station about the new book.

Michael Bastian for Gant Fashion Week Presentation

What Do Your Clothes Say About You?

Are cargo pants and Converse All-Stars right for a night at the theater? Charles Salzberg, writing today for Forbes Woman on the way men dress, found that the answer is no.

Like many men, Salzberg learned this from a woman–his girlfriend. His problem is a common one for American men; in his words: “I wear clothes I feel comfortable in. For me that’s what dressing is all about.”

The most interesting part of his account was this:

I know how you dress communicates something about you, and my girlfriend and I recently got into a discussion about this. “What do you think the way you dress says to people about you?” she asked.

The answer was easy. “That I’m kind of laid back and non-judgmental.”

She frowned. “Well, that’s true, but it also says that you don’t care enough about others to dress appropriately.”

And this, right there, is what millions of women and thousands of retailers have been trying to tell American men for decades. It’s as if the typical guy uses all of his extra energy for sports stats and backyard grill skills. At what point, many of us wonder, did the American man get so self-absorbed that he thought comfort was paramount, and that dressing well was uncomfortable? Anyone?
–Harry Sheff

Stephen Dubner on the Paradox of Choice

In the video below, Freakonomics co-author Stephen Dubner addresses the National Retail Federation’s BIG Show audience and talks about “The Paradox of Choice” at retail. “People say they want more,” says Dubner, “but what they really want is what they want.” He means that endless variety in a retail store may be dazzling, and consumers may ask for it, but it won’t translate into sales. With an economy that discourages high inventories, this is good news–but the trick for retailers is how to find what their customers really want.

Watch more footage from the NRF’s BIG Show at their YouTube channel.

Martin Greenfield, Brooklyn Tailor

photo from The Selby

The Selby, a blog by photographer Todd Selby, posts looks into creative people’s lives, workspaces and homes. Selby’s latest series focuses on Martin Greenfield, a tailor in Bushwick, Brooklyn whose shop has been in the same location since 1917. The photos were taken for GQ‘s December ’09 issue.

Greenfield’s shop makes suits for Band of Outsiders, Rag & Bone and many others. Back in April 2008, when we honored Massimo Bizzocchi as our ‘Best Dressed Man’ of the year, he mentioned a collaboration with Greenfield.

Greenfield started working at this shop in 1947 as a floor boy when it was GGG Clothes. He worked his way up to VP of production, and then bought out his bosses in 1977, renaming the business Martin Greenfield Clothiers. His sons Jay and Tod joined him in the 80s. Greenfield told The Selby that it takes about 10-12 hours to make each suit.

Below is a short documentary about Greenfield by Galen Summer from about a year ago. –Harry Sheff

via Racked.com.

The Infamous Fashion Kiss

I’ve never been a fan of the hello kiss so common in the fashion business. It’s awkward, and I find the people who do it most are the ones I know the least. And it’s so hard to tell whether or not it’s going to be just one kiss (which cheek?), two kisses (starting where?), or three. Often when I hold out my hand for an honest (or deflective) shake, people will use it to pull me in for the kiss.

I’m not alone. Our associate editor Elise Diamantini just sent me this comment from Nicole Miller, owner of the Seattle shop Blackbird. We’d asked Miller some questions for a feature in our upcoming January 15, 2010 issue. Here’s how she replied when we asked her to tell us something most people don’t know about her:

“Some people know this about me but maybe not enough. I don’t want to be kissed at market appointments. Now… if I know you and like you, a big hug and kiss is in order, but otherwise this is business and a simple, yet firm handshake is appropriate. I had to laugh when someone once thought I was a germaphobe.”

This reminds me of an article from the Wall Street Journal about a year ago, in which Christina Binkley listed the rules of social kissing. Here’s a quick primer: start with the right cheek, and expect two kisses from people in fashion fields. Defer to the ranking person or let the ranking woman decide (are fashion editors always the highest ranking or the lowest ranking?). But I’d prefer to go with Nicole Miller’s rule: keep the kisses for friends.
–Harry Sheff

Suited For Work

FEGS (Federation Employment and Guidance Service), a beneficiary of UJA-Federation of New York, has been operating the Suited for Work program since February ’08. The non-profit provides an interview suit, shirt and tie to low income NYC men trying to get back to work.

Suited for Work depends on donations from the menswear industry, so join companies like Peerless, PVH, VF Corp. and many others in this important mission. E-mail kzuckerman@fegs.org to inquire about making a contribution. As program participant Robert Hall says, “When you look good, you feel good, and when you feel good, you do good.”

Check out the video above and look for in-depth coverage of charities that dress men for work in MR’s January 15th issue. –Jillian Sprague

Karmaloop.com Buyer Wire

Karmaloop.com is doing some pretty cool things on their Karmaloop TV site. “Buyer Wire” is a station where buyers introduce new lines and highlight key pieces for the season. Customers can watch the videos to learn interesting facts about the brands or designer and can see how clothes fit on real people. The best part is if they click on featured product, it’s automatically added to their shopping cart. Check out the video above where men’s buyer Holland Smith talks about RVCA and Rebel 8. -Elise Diamantini

Li & Fung’s Sourcing Power

Hudson’s Bay Company, North America’s oldest continually operating company (founded in 1670), signed a sourcing deal with Li & Fung today. That means that Hudson’s Bay’s retailers — Lord & Taylor in the U.S. and The Bay, Zellers and Home Outfitters in Canada — will all use Li & Fung for their apparel sourcing needs.

Fortune had a great article today about the brothers who run Hong Kong-based sourcing giant Li & Fung.

The 103-year-old firm, which boasted sales in 2008 of $14.3 billion, is run by CEO William Fung and his brother, chairman Victor Fung–both of them Harvard grads. Two-thirds of the business is apparel. It’s so big now that, according to Fortune, “Li & Fung produced more clothing last year than the apparel exported by Thailand, South Korea, and Malaysia combined.”

Li & Fung is goriwing fast, and it’s starting to buy brands instead of just acquiring licenses. Fortune adds that it’s eyeing manufacturing in Africa and South America, as China becomes more expensive. Read the whole story at Fortune online.